It must be due to 7 weeks lack of oxygen...yeah, that's it. What else would cause me to misplace my passport!? After 2 dark days of burocratic nightmare, I am set to leave Katamdu (it has felt like a prison under these circumstances). I had to delay my original departure by a day. Someone (perhaps the pick pocket himself!?) called and there is acahnce I will get the passort and Visa - we shall see.
As you have read on Enews, Summit Climb were the heros on the North side - we completed the fixed rope above the 2nd step when we were getting our 8 people on top. Neil, the 1st Chinese born American and Magnus, one of our Swedes were the 'clients,' accompanied by 3 Sherpas and 3 Tibetan altitude climbers - all and all an impressive effort in what were marginal conditions. We were partucularilly concerned with Magnus who spent 21 hours climbing back to Camp 3, partly WO O's! He and a Tibetan climber suffered 2nd degree frostbite but both will recovery well. My summit efforts were thwarted by sickness at BC just prior to the climb up - I needed an exta day at BC while I was on antibiotics. It took 2X as much time to go from intemediate camp to ABC (8 hours) and it was obvious that I was in trouble even with an extra day at ABC - we (Dawa Sherpa & I) aborted, It was a good thing with the border-line conditions...I was not as strong as our 2 client summiters. 'The mountain will always be there, as the Sherpas say.' I learned a lot and it was an incedible experience. I am glad to report that the entire team is down and all are well and on other journeys home.
I did find to 'good times' in Katmandu and managed a full day's tour of the Monkey Temple and another, as well as a visit to the Hindu cremation site. The cremation site was particullarly fascinating and we spent a good hour observing the various ritual and ceremony.
I'm off tomorrow to Bali for a few days and then back to US soil on 6/12. I look forward to seeing you all to share my tales and photos. I am especially grateful for this wonderful time to experience Chomolongma and the magical world od Tibet and Nepal. Special thanks to Dr. Williams - the shoulder is working great and allowed me ro sleep on both my sides whilst on my Thermorest/Ridgecrest durring MY '7 weeks in Tibet.' This was a big deal!
Aussie birthday greetings to my 'Auntie' on the Gold Coast who is topping the scales at 90!
Namaste. Bob
Friends and family - Sorry for the absense. I did do a post just before we got to BC, but the 'Chinese' Blogger had an error and obviously never made print. The altitude is slowly working its wonders (both good and bad!) and I have forgotten things like my checking account #, ATM PW, etc...I still know who I am and why I am here, although the last part is a bit in question.
I believe Ryan has been pretty regular about the sat phone updates to Everest News and I will get in on the action once we get back to BC tomorrow. I have been blabing about 'Shegu,' but it is actually 'Shigar' and was also the staging location for all 3 of Mallorey's expeditions befre they went up the Rongbok glaciers. I just finished reading the 'Last Climb' and it was a treat to see images and hear about the Rongbok Monestary, main Rongbok Glacier (it has retreated quite a bit since the 1920's) and East Rongbok Glacier to the North Col - this is of course the exact route that these gentlemen Brits took back then! I almost feel guilty in my poly-pro and down - they were a tough bunch and struggled with the BC to ABC trek as we have.
Our group made 2 treks to ABC with the second run our Camp 2/North Col goal. 5 of our members made it to NC and higher and spent at least 1 night there at ~23K'. I manged the latter, but scampered down after an awful wakeful night. it was for me and Neil, personal altitude records. I will stoke up on the diomox and don the 'summit suit' on this next go around, weather and health permitting. I have some great pictures of us going up to the NC and was pretty fired up about finally doing some real climbing with crampons. Russel Brice (the 'king of the North side') coordinated the fixed rope efforts with his and other of the best Sherpas. These ropes are now fixed all the way to Camp 3 with the final summit rope to be in place one the weather clears. All the teams will pay the Tibetan Mountaineering Ass. and then Russel will get his due from there. They have done an excellent job - we just 'rail' on the ropes with our acenders and go up.
We have quite enjoyed our little 3 day respite here in Shigar with the tasty Sheshan style food, warm beds, and hot showers from 8-12PM. Hopefully we are all putting on some weight to make up for what we have lost (it is hard for me to look in a mirror!) - oh well less to carry back up! Hanging with some of the other climbers, kicking around the soccer ball, hiking in to town, reading, andf doing laundry are our pasttimes. With the warmer weather and less wind, Shigar has been much more enjoyable this go around.
It will be with some reluctance that we will be off tomorrow, but it will be good to see Ryan and the rest of the staff with the new food provisions and anticipation of the summit window. We are anticipating a similar mid May window to last year, although will be lucky to have it last as long through early June. Frankly, we all hope to be done by some time around the 20th+ of May.
Unfortunately, Rikard the 'other Swedish' climber came down with 'gastrointestinites' which forced him to bag his earlier strong efforts. Both the Indian and Russian doctors were kind enough to tend to him and get him mobile enough for travel. We put him on a Land Cruiser 4 days ago and he should be back on HK by now. Steve continues to struggle with his cronic cough (which we all have to varying degrees, due to the cold dry air - called the 'Kumba cough' on the south side) and weakness at ABC. He is hoping to feel better up high after our recent rest.
So, this will be the last internect update until we come down from our final session. I will of course call up on the sat phone during our summit scrambles. Thanks again for all your good thoughts and vibes - I hope that all is well with you all.
Note to the Cornice Gang - one of the MP3 players died at BC, but the other one continues to charm and I have great pics of my Sherpa, Dhawa enjoying tunes at BC as well as Frederik, the Swede, and Toto, the Brassalian climber. I also go some pics of the Cornice banner on the NC wipping in the wind.
Belated Mother's Day wishes to my Mom.
Namaste, until then, Bob
Sorry to to have been AWOL but it has been a pretty intense preperation and final gear tune in Katmandu. Great to see Dan and Ryan (our guide) and the team; Rikard (Swede from China), Magnus, Frederick (2 more Swedes!?), Neal Jing (Chinese living in Pheonix), and Steve & I.
Had a little mishap in Katmandu where I spaced and left my camera in a taxi so now have an all new Nikon system. The good news is that theings are cheap in Katmandu and it was ~1/2 price than in the US.
We arrived in Lhasa this afternoon - what an amxing place. Tibetan plane!? It is covered in high peaks! Both the Nepalese and Tibetan people are models for us all in freindliness and graciousness! Simply a delight...very genuine.
The Swedes are waiting so I gotta go. We leave on the 7th for BC. Will try and update again.
Namaste, Bob
